2-Pack CR10 Z axis T8 Anti Backlash Spring Loaded Nut Elimination Gap Brass Nuts for Upgrade Ender 3 Ender 3s Ender 3 Pro V2 CR-10 Tornado 3D Printer 8mm Acme Threaded Rod (Nuts)

This was a well made and finished product, but the screw holes are 19mm apart and will not fit an Ender 3/Voxelab Aquila printer that require 18mm separation. The lead screw nut has less intrinsic slop than the OEM nut, and with the backlash set, has zero slop/backlash.

Easy to install. Just do one side at a time.

Dont buy if you need accuracy. I have two of these because I have two Z screws on my 3D printer. This component is meant to enhance the precision of the printer, but the machining of the component is clearly inconsistent. It allows for about .4mm of play in the Z axis when the entire point is for it to maintain a consistent Z value and allow for tolerance on the X and Y axis. The mounting screws-holes are also inconsistently placed, deviating by about .7mm, and making mounting doubius. The way this is mounted does not allow for correction by an anti backlash component. Dont buy this if your intention is increased accuracy.

This does not fit the z axis rod for the creality 10s pro v2. I ordered 2 just in case there was a QC. problem. Neither fit. I am assuming the rod is a 2mm pitch, 8mm diameter. It could be that the part is correct and the rod is not. Be sure about what you are buying.

worked on my Creality CR10 max printer. install isnt hard, but be careful with the tiny bolts on the install. Dont know if it really helped or not as I did a BUNCH of other upgrades. but my CR10 max was printing like trash before, and now its back to normal. what I added: Silicone bed leveling bushings. these Z-height screw anti bask lash nuts. flipped the Z axis screws installed a belt that connected both Z height screws together.

I own a Creality Ender 3 v2 and put these on as an upgrade. It makes a big difference. Just know that the top piece with the notch in it, the notch faces down to the bottom, there is a great video on All3dp.com, but they tell you to put this piece on opposite of what i said because they are using a different mfg. But the rest is the same.

Okay, think about a ruler hanging over the edge of a table 10 inches, its easy to press down and deflect the ruler with your finger because the rulers resistance at 10 inches is very low. Now if you draw the ruler in so that most of it is touching the table and only 1 inch is hanging over the table, it is very hard to deflect. **** Well, this is the issue with binding, not only the two screws that secure the bearing/backlash nut need to be loosened, but also the two screws for the adapter that hold the lead screw to the motor, and the screws that hold the motor to the 90 degree mounting plate. Loosen all six of these screws. Make sure the bearing/backlash nut is greased well and run your Z-stage all the way down to the limit switch and make sure it is resting against the limit switch when you tighten it down. **** Why? Because the lead screw flexes the least in this position, so we want the placement of all elements to favor running true at the limit switch. Like the ruler mentioned in the example above, the system could care less at the far end, the lead screw will flex and not put up a fight that far out, but closer to the limit switch when it gets short is where everything needs to be truest.

Some received a product that doesnt fit on their machine. I did not, and installation with a POM nut was quick and removed 100% of binding. I checked for loose tolerances and there is a very slight wiggle that can be felt and heard, but not seen, which is good enough for the Z-axis of a 3d printer. I suggest hanging your gantry from this coupling and having the nut above them both so gravity pre-loads it, reducing backlash by ensuring the nut meshes on lower side of the threading at all times. As for reduction in print artifacts, I can say it does help but isnt a panacea. Adjust eccentric nuts. Replace POM wheels. Look into a ways to support the other end of the gantry.

I installed these by following a video on how to install a backlash nut on an Ender. I compressed the nut, threaded the Z rod and it looked good. However, the gantry still drops at the lightest touch. Perhaps this would work better on a different printer.

The description called this a set so I ordered one thinking that it has 2 couplers, but no its only a single one. 1 star because of this